I have a MIDI controller keyboard that I have cleaned in the past with disinfectant alcohol wipes, which I know is a bad idea because it degrades the rubber over time.
Well, the rubber on the pitch bend and modulation wheels has indeed degraded, and the surfaces texture is awful, uneven and sticky now. My fault… I know.
So does anyone know of any way to fix, or even improve, this kind of nasty rubber surface degradation once it occurs? Sanding? Applying oils? Is there any way I can even slightly restore these controls back to their original soft-touch rubbery glory?
For degraded rubberized surfaces on computer peripherals (I’m looking at you, Logitech) I now use WD40.
I soak pretty much the entire device in it and leave it overnight in the open. Most of the WD40 will have evaporated, leaving behind a film of dissolved degraded rubber and other gunk. You then use alcohol-free wet wipes to rub all that off and leave the device to dry.
I found that this approach requires less rubbing and scrubbing, useful for bigger batches. Don’t worry about the smell, it airs out in a couple of days.
WD40 evaporates?
Anyway, my go-to is paper towels, cotton swabs and isopropyl alcohol.Alternatively, if it’s a flat surface I may just stick it over with some tape. The glue will make additional mess, but that’s a problem of future me, and at least I won’t have to care about it now.
Wd40 has a small amount of oil dissolved in a large amount of volatile solvent.
So most of it does evaporate, and OPs method cleans up residual oil
WD40 evaporates?
A lot of compressed canned things are something suspended in a solvent, and when let out of the container the solvent evaporates leaving behind whatever stuff was dissolved in it. I can’t speak if it’s the solvent or something in the WD-40 that has the effect the previous poster is talking about.
It may not be you.
There’s some polymer substance that was used to create “rubberized” coatings on a lot of consumer electronics some years back that degrades to a sticky mess over time on its own. I had a Grundig G6 shortwave radio that did it badly, as well as some other devices.
I don’t believe that you can “undegrade” it, but if it’s the same stuff, you can manage to remove it, just leave unrubberized plastic.
I used isopropyl alcohol and a lot of elbow grease, which eventually works.
This blog mentions it:
https://swling.com/blog/2021/01/getting-the-grundig-g6-out-of-a-sticky-situation/
They recommend “Purple Power”.
Tip for non-USonians: what’s sold as “Purple Power” (and “Simple Green”, and several other frequently-recommended cleaners for this sort of thing) are not necessarily the same products around the world. For example, in the US “Purple Power” is an ethylene glycol based cleaner/degreaser; here in Aus, if you ask for “Purple Power” you’ll get a sodium hydroxide based degreaser.
One will clean the gunk off your radio; the other will clean the gunk and most of the labelling off…
These guys have some recommendations of their own:
https://www.ifixit.com/News/93833/ask-ifixit-how-do-i-fix-sticky-plastics
On a somewhat related note, simple green is the ducks nuts.
That shit is so cheap too, I keep that thang on me.
Simple Green, Folex, and Dawn Power Wash (mix at home to save cash) are my go-to items
Last time I looked into this the answer was no - it’s a permanent chemical change you can’t heal or stop or cover.
The best thing I’ve found was to keep using alcohol wipes to scrape away the gooey top surface every once in a while. ☹️
The best thing I’ve found was to keep using alcohol wipes to scrape away the gooey top surface every once in a while.
This reminds me of my body’s strategy of eating as much and as many foods as it can until my stomach feels better.
Depends on how much work you want to do.
If you can get the pieces off you can remove the layer that is degrading, prep the plastic and use a spray on vinyl polymer to recoat it.
Stuff like spray on ‘electrical tape’ and plastidip can be found in most hardware stores for pretty cheap. If you’re serious, they make a type of primer specifically for plastic, typically used for prepping before painting, but it serves to let the spray adhere to the plastic.
FWIW, it’s probably not your fault
Not sure if it’s feasible with tiny textured things, but I covered my degrading bicycle handles with gaffing tape. Been good for almost three years now.
But yeah I always clean things with soap and water or all purpose spray from local bulk store. Alcohol is often to stronk for most things in the normal house. Also as others have said, it might not even be the alcohol, “rubber” surfaces often deglade like that no matter what you do.
It depends, I had some success with using alcohol and talcum powder afterwards. (yes, really)
The explanation I’ve seen before is these are usually a soft-touch plastic and they’re made “soft-touch” by adding oils to the plastic, but they leach out over time putting a sticky layer on the now-harder plastic. The rubbing alcohol can help clean away the oil and stickiness but the plastic won’t be soft anymore.
The Volkswagen guys want to know the answer to this too
If it is the soft-touch plastic, the answer is to use alcohol and just remove it. The hard plastics stand up over time but the soft plastics turn into a gummy mess. A common one is headphones.
I’ve had excellent results with Fantastik. I was told it’s original intent was for belts and pucks on analog tape machines and was sold under the name “Audiosol”.
I recently saw somewhere that gasoline can help. Might be total bullshit, or depend on the exact material. Might be worth trying on a very small area of the rubber surface. Outside in the shade. Gas fumes are bad.
I had a portable HDD, Pininfarina, that degraded. That was the last time I bought anything with that texture.
I just painted it with nail polish. Not longer soft, but at least not sticky and you can use different colours, paint on some designs, glitter or plain boring clear polish.
Haven’t dared do it for movable parts, especially not ones that go into any unreachable mechanical areas, in case the movement makes it flaky in time. But as long as you can open and clean it out it might be worth a try.
303 aerospace conditioner is what we use for raft rubber. Works for tires and a lot of plastics if they’re not too far gone (needs original structure, can fix texture). To be clear though it’s basically straight PFAS so if that is a concern I’d probably just try to fine a replacement part. A lot of electronics get broken cords so if you can find a busted one on eBay that’s maybe the better choice.
