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Joined 3 years ago
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Cake day: June 15th, 2023

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  • I mean good-ish in the lesser-evil type of thing. I don’t expect any of those to be 100% ethical but there are some that are a lot worse than others

    Ethics are subjective. “Good-ish” to you may mean you’re fine if its trained on copyrighted works as long as it wasn’t done with electricity from diesel generators belching exhaust into the local Memphis atmosphere (I’m looking at you Grok). Llama doesn’t do the diesel generator thing, but its a product of Facebook corporation. So is that “good-ish” to you or not? I don’t know. That’s up to you.

    It may not be fast, but your i3 laptop with 12GB of system RAM can absolutely run a local LLM. This is where that “performance/accuracy” question I raised comes in. It won’t be very fast, and you won’t be able to run the most common large models like GPT-5 etc. However, if your needs are light, light models exist. Give this a read




  • There are some multi-user aspects to LORD (Legend of the Red Dragon). You can trade and communicate with other players through turn based messages (like mail). Additionally you can attack other players that are not staying at an inn, or be attacked yourself by other players (PvP). This is available in addition to the PvE content (leveling up to go after the Red Dragon).

    Because its turn based, you can attack in your turns, and instantly see the outcome of the offline player. The computer plays their part in battle so you can choose to try to finish the battle or try to flee if you are getting your ass handed to you. As a defending player you’re not there for the battle so you log in you see the transcript of what happened along with your fate and that of the other named player. Its surprisingly exciting even reading it after the battle!


  • Lots of folks here are making good recommendations. Don’t forget some of the OG MUDs like Legend of the Red Dragon. There are quite a few internet accessible BBSes still running the classic game.

    I like that it has an exhaustion component to the gameplay that only lets you do a few actions a day (that you can do in as short as 5 min if you want). This means you’ll never find yourself too deep in the game because you’ll have to wait until tomorrow for more turns. It also gives you something to look forward to the next day to see what happened in your absence between daily turns.


  • Hoping JTS that green cap and not the 4050 chip…

    That green cap I think is a mylar capacitor and will cost you maybe 5 cents at retail (and .00001 cents in bulk).

    That 4050 is also dirt cheap. Maybe 50 cents to $1 USD at retail. You’ll pay more in shipping costs than for the part. Today’s CMOS ICs are a bit more robust against static discharge than those made in the 1980s, but don’t risk it when you do the replacement. Make sure you use a grounding wrist strap or the like when you desolder the old 4050 and put in the new 4050, partially to protect the 4050 but really to protect that CPU which will probably cost you closer to $11-$20 (just a guess) to replace if it dies.


  • I’ve never worked on Atari consoles but you got me curious.

    I did a Google search for schematics, not surprising, found many variants. So I don’t know if this one is your board, but here’s the schematic for one with some of my colored markup:

    In working operation the Red arrow is apparently the “fire” button on the joystick and to activate the function, pressing the fire button ties Pin 6 to Pin 8 (blue arrow). Pin 6 is normally pulled down (to ground) by that circuit I have circled in dark red. Pin 8 has 5v+ generated by part I have circled in magenta. So pressing the button sends 5v+ first through that dark blue circled area which I think its doing some debouncing (cleaning up noise preventing accidental quick/up/down/up/down in the micro seconds of the fire button is pressed). If any of those capacitors or that diode is shorted, it would send 5v+ constantly “holding down” the fire button.

    Assuming all of that is fine, the next area I’d look at would be that dark red circled area. This is where the pull down to ground comes from making sure pin 6 is low and the fire button is “off” or “not pressed” if any of this is floating, it could show up as “not ground” and the main IC would think the button is pressed.

    Next would be the those 4050 ICs circled in green. These are CMOS buffers and CMOS ICs ARE EXTREMELY VULNERABLE TO STATIC DISCHARGE. Their job is just to take an input of some voltage and output a single clean digital signal of either 1 or 0. There is one buffer for each fire button (left and right joysticks).

    Finally the fire button output of that 4050 buffer is delivered in to the main CPU that A201 TIA PAL (my schematic may be from a European model).

    If you had this disassembled on a bench and had a voltmeter, you could get a good idea of where the problem is in about 10 minutes.