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Joined 2 years ago
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Cake day: June 15th, 2023

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  • From you link:

    While the commonly expressed aspects of the straight edge subculture have been abstinence from alcohol, nicotine, and illegal drugs, there have been considerable variations. Disagreements often arise as to the primary reasons for living straight edge.

    Wouldn’t having to justify why you’re making a choice to someone be anti-punk in general? If someone is disagreeing with you for you choosing to be “straight edge” shouldn’t the punk response to them be: “Fuck you”?

    Additionally, if someone that is “straight edge” is telling someone else they should also be straight edge, isn’t the response to them also “Fuck you”?


  • You can throw a cast iron pan off a fucking roof, leave it in a wet ditch for 2 years, it won’t be harmed. Quarter teaspoon of oil rubbed in, be back to cooking.

    Sure but if you don’t use lye and just use dish soap, then you can skip that step and you keep cooking.

    You can throw a cast iron pan off a fucking roof, leave it in a wet ditch for 2 years, it won’t be harmed.

    Well if you leave it in a wet ditch for years it would rust and pit eventually. It doesn’t mean you couldn’t regrind the surface to get it smooth again, then seasoning to get it back into cooking form.


  • For the big stuck on pieces, you use a stainless steel chainmail scrubber. For cast iron pans you can scrub as hard as you can with that and you aren’t hurting the pan. Try doing that on your aluminum, Teflon non-stick pan, or your nicely polished stainless steel pan and let me know how that goes (don’t do this). For cleaning off oils and grease off cast iron, regular liquid dish soap (like Dawn) works great and is totally okay to use for cleaning cast iron.

    For your cast iron, don’t use lye based cleaners and don’t put your cast iron in the dishwasher.




  • First, I always appreciate the effort for creating open systems:

    and it’s entirely open source — bar its off-the-shelf print heads and ink cartridges.

    …but the cartridge is usually the worst offender of commercial implementations for a number of reasons.

    …leading companies including Brother, Epson, and Hewlett-Packard to implement a range of restrictions in hardware and firmware in an effort to lock printers down to their specific first-party cartridges.

    The Open Printer, its creators claim, won’t do that — although it’s based around off-the-shelf Hewlett-Packard color and black ink cartridges with built-in print heads, the tiny microfluidic nozzles of a high-resolution inkjet being a little beyond the realm of do-it-yourself hardware. These cartridges, which can be third-party compatibles or refilled originals, are installed in a cartridge board driven by an STMicroelectronics STM32 microcontroller — which is, in turn, connected to a Raspberry Pi Zero W single-board computer acting as the central brain of the system.

    So they’ve built their own driver for the cartridge which is good as it would prevent the vendor from denying the use of third party or expired first party cartridges from operating. There’s still the expense of acquiring the first party cartridges, and the questionable quality of third party/refilled to contend with.





  • It’s also important to check whether solar overcacity is worthwhile in the UsA. Her3 it is not( anymore).

    I’ll say generally speaking in most places it isn’t, however, once you go solar, you may increase your electricity usage as you move away from carbon based energy. Before solar we had natural gas furnace heating and two gasoline cars. Now we have two EVs and a cold climate heat pump with zero natural gas and zero gasoline consumption. So I wanted the larger solar capacity to cover the increases in electricity we knew we’d have.

    Its worked out pretty well. We have fairly large electricity bills ($400ish) in Jan and Feb, a small bill in March, and usually a tiny bill (under $10) in April. Then no bills for the rest of the year. Also keep in mind that is TOTAL energy costs, no gas or gasoline bought anymore.


  • And buy them according and after you’ve done everything possible to insulate your house, whether in the colder or warmer climates.

    In the USA there are silly rules that you can only get 120% capacity of your last years worth grid consumption as solar installed. So if one were to follow your advice and do all the energy efficient improvement prior to solar, then you would be restricted to getting a much smaller array. I understand why they have the rule, but its easy to circumvent by just having artificially oversized consumption for a year in your house, and you can then get the larger array you want before then doing all the energy improvements post-array installation.



  • could be because I told them I’ll buy once I can get net zero.

    I’m not following your logic. You aren’t willing to accept any savings unless you can completely zero out your power bill? Judging from your consumption I’m assuming a good chunk of that is for cooling your home? If so that means you’re likely in a pretty great place to harvest solar power. You’d reach payback of your investment on your array much faster than most, and be saving money for probably 35 years or more with little to no additional investment.

    Making some guesses for how much your electricity rates are, and how much you’re consuming (assuming much from cooling), you might be a full payback in less than 7 years if you took advantage of the tax credit. Then, every month after that you’d be gaining money back.