8 is Clean Code by Robert C Martin (Uncle Bob)

19 is Introduction to Algorithms (commonly referred to as CLRS,)

New band name: Alien Prolapse

Twice on Sundays.

They may do best there, but I think there is wiggle room, at least for small scale cultivation.

My dad used to grow them in 9a and they grew pretty well. But they need to be covered up or brought in overnight if it’s going to get too cold.

What’s the phone number of the chicken farm? 4444719

Explanation: Cot cot cot cot c’est un oeuf!

(cot being the French onomatopoeia for a chicken’s “cluck”)

About the time they got rid of the hard plastic cashew jars and switched to the bags, they also started selling a (more expensive) glass jar of cashews.

So for me, it does cut down on the plastic, since now I just refill the glass jar with the bagged cashews, rather than needing to buy (and dispose of) the plastic jar every time.

I might feel differently if I was actually reusing the plastic jars for something but I really wasn’t (not after the first few, anyway).

This is what happens Larry, when you find a stranger in the alps.

When I was first starting out, I spent a lot of time at the BeeSource forums. I haven’t been there in a while, so I don’t know how it currently is, but I found it a good resource initially. FWIW, I always found the beekeeping-related subreddits to be pretty hit and miss.

There are tons of books available, possibly from your local library, but some are better than others. Wicwas press has a lot of good books, but I think they skew more towards advanced beginner and later, rather than the basic beginner.

But most importantly, there’s a saying that “all beekeeping is local”. While the basics are generally the same everywhere, the specifics vary depending on location. Not only things like temperature, humidity, and rainfall, but also what kinds of plants bloom, when and how often.

So regardless of any reading or other research you do, one of the best things you can do to learn is join a local beekeeping club. There will surely be members that have been there for a while, and you can learn from them what really works in your area.

Also, if you’re in the US, check with your local Ag Extension office. They may have resources or info to help you get started. Possibly even classes.

I’d start with local apiaries and/or small/mid scale beekeepers.

The trick will be finding one that will let you buy a smaller quantity (relatively speaking - you probably don’t want multiple 55 gallon drums of honey) at near-wholesale prices.

This might be tough, because small scale (hobbyist or side-gig) beekeepers often charge a premium because they’re not producing a lot, and value the hard work they put into what they did get.

On the flip side, larger outfits will likely already have contracts with a reseller, and may not want to bother with selling a mere 50-100 lbs as a one-off.

A good place to ask around might be a local beekeeping club/meetup. It would at least let you meet some of your local beeks, and maybe determine which are retail-only and which do wholesale.

Unfortunately, I’ve really scaled back my number of hives and now only get enough honey to keep my immediate family supplied.

But I appreciate the sentiment.

Beekeeper here. I won’t comment on whether or not you should. But since I know a little about storing honey, here are some things to consider:

If you do this, you need to make sure it’s sealed in airtight containers.

Part of what gives honey its antimicrobial properties (and long shelf life) is its low moisture content. But it’s hygroscopic and will pull moisture directly from the air if exposed. After it pulls enough moisture, it can ferment, grow bacteria, or otherwise not be fit for normal consumption.

Also, honey can crystallize over time. This doesn’t mean it’s bad, but in order to re-liquify it, you’ll need to heat it. So consider your storage container size and material carefully.

That said, 52 lbs is less than a 5 gallon bucket full (at roughly 12 lbs / gallon), so it shouldn’t take an incredible amount of space if you choose to do it. Or, in smaller portions, a quart mason jar will hold about 3 lbs. So 2 cases (12 jars each) would exceed your quantity requirements, and be more manageable than a 60lb bucket.

Also if you can buy it in bulk at wholesale prices, it will be cheaper. Retail can be anywhere from $5-$20 per pound (depending on what/where) whereas the last I checked, wholesale prices were more like $1.50 - $3.50 per pound, depending on quantity.

Hope that helps.

Then you’ll love this new product that’s guaranteed* to reduce the amount of advertising you’re exposed to!

*Warning: may cause blindness, loss of hearing, and inability to leave your room.

But in all seriousness… I hate it, too. It’s fucking everywhere.

Back in the 90s, Windows NT had a POSIX compatibility layer that you could enable (it wasn’t enabled by default).

The issue is that there are numerous posts instigating and encouraging everyone to defederate.

Why do you think that is?

Hint: It’s not because people are against federation with new instances.

Anyone who has an issue can reach out to me and I can address their concerns.

Is that reasonable?

No. People have told you repeatedly what the main issues are. If you want people to stop criticizing, then perhaps you should actually listen to them.

The longer the distance, the larger the diameter of the wire you need, due to resistance/heat.

Typically, extension cords are going to be manufactured with the thinnest wire they can get away with based on the safety requirements, in order to save on materials cost.

So plugging 2 short cords together might cover the same distance as 1 longer cord, but the longer cord will use thicker wire to maintain the proper margin of safety.

Might be fiddler

We absolutely do care about community.

You can say that all you want, but actions speak louder than words.

Because we are not lemmy based, so our development takes time (plus my developer left, plus we were trying to move to sublinks which itself has federation issues). So federation for us is not a config setting.

You launched what you apparently considered to be your MVP, and it’s a one-way leech of fediverse user content.

The fact that you were willing to launch without federation in place signals, at least to me, that you care far less about community participation than you do about the content the community produces.

Additionally, different admins feel different rules are fair, so it is hard for us to know how to be good community members.

Welcome to the fediverse, where every software stack works a little differently, and every server has its own rules.

I request a common set of rules, preferably based on traffic, so any newbie can get the breathing room to develop and participate. Does that sound fair?

You’re asking for someone to give you a set of common rules across all instances? For unpaid users and/or volunteer admins to spend their time compiling this information just to provide it to you?

No, actually. To me that doesn’t sound fair at all.

I’ve been around the block a few times, so maybe I’m just jaded.

My take is that it’s a proprietary platform, siphoning user data/content to redisplay and monetize.

Additionally, my gut feeling is that they don’t care about the community at all, and are just trying to leverage it to make money. They want to be the next reddit, and think the fediverse is their ticket. And I don’t think anything I’ve seen so far indicates otherwise.

We block Threads, and I think we should block this, too, immediately. If, in the future, the situation changes and they actually “give and take” rather than just “take” , then it should be simple enough to refederate.

My 2c.

At least they don’t have herpes.

I’m just wrapping up my first playthrough of Fallout 3. I’m not “done” but I finished the main storyline and am starting to lose steam with side quests and DLC. So I may wind up putting it down soon.

But I really enjoyed it. I’ll probably play something else for a while, then give New Vegas a try.