I couldn’t find a “Home Networking” community, so this seemed like the best place to post :)

My house has this small closet in the hallway and thought it’d make a perfect place to put networking equipment. I got an electrician to install power outlets in it, ran some CAT6 myself (through the wall, down into the crawlspace, to several rooms), and now I finally have a proper networking setup that isn’t just cables running across the floor.

The rack is a basic StarTech two-post rack (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001U14MO8/) and the shelving unit is an AmazonBasics one that ended up perfectly fitting the space (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09W2X5Y8F/).

In the rack, from top to bottom (prices in US dollars):

  • TP-Link ER8411 10Gbps router. My main complaint about it is that the eight ‘RJ45’ ports are all Gigabit, and there’s only two 10Gbps ports (one SFP+ for WAN, and one SFP+ for LAN). It can definitely reach 10Gbps NAT throughput though. $350
  • Wiitek SFP+ to RJ45 module for connecting Sonic’s ONT (which only has an RJ45 port), and 10Gtek SFP+ DAC cable to connect router to switch.
  • MikroTik CRS312-4C+8XG-RM managed switch (runs RouterOS). 12 x 10Gbps ports. I bought it online from Europe, so it ended up being ~$520 all-in, including shipping.
  • Cable Matters 24-port keystone patch panel.
  • TP-Link TL-SG1218MPE 16-port Gigabit PoE switch. 250 W PoE power budget. Used for security cameras - three cameras installed so far.
  • Tripp Lite 14 outlet PDU.

Other stuff:

  • AdTran 622v ONT provided by my internet provider (Sonic), mounted to the wall.
  • HP ProDesk 600 G5 SFF PC with Core i5-9500. Using it for a home server running Home Assistant, Blue Iris, Node-RED, Zigbee2MQTT, and a few other things. Bought it off eBay for $200.
    • Sonoff Zigbee dongle plugged in to the front USB port
  • (next to the PC) Raspberry Pi 4B with SATA SSD plugged in to it. Not doing anything at the moment, as I migrated everything to the PC.
  • (not pictured) Wireless access point is just a basic Netgear one I bought from Costco a few years ago. It’s sitting on the top shelf. I’m going to replace it with a TP-Link Omada ceiling-mounted one once their wifi 7 access points have been released.

Speed test: https://www.speedtest.net/my-result/d/3740ce8b-bba5-486f-9aad-beb187bd1cdc

Edit: Sorry, I don’t know why the image is rotated :/ The file looks fine on my computer.

  • dan@upvote.auOPEnglish
    1·
    1 year ago

    Could you go over some of your reasoning + need for the networking equipment you have?

    I have a 10Gbps internet connection (only costs $40/month in my area) so I wanted a 10Gbps router. The TP-Link ER8411 is currently the cheapest 10Gbps router that can actually achieve 10Gbps NAT throughput.

    However, that router only has 1Gbps RJ45 ports, not 10Gbps. I wanted to get 10Gbps over regular CAT6 cable, so I needed a 10Gbps switch too. The MikroTik is very good value for money - a lot of other brands only have 2.5Gbps switcheswith one or two 10Gbps ports for the same price as the one I’ve got (that has 12 x 10Gbps ports).

    I needed a PoE (Power over Ethernet) switch for my security cameras. TP-Link TL-SG1218MPE is a good deal at only $200 for 16 PoE ports. I was looking at a cheaper one that’s $110 for 8 PoE ports (https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1090765-REG/tp_link_tl_sg2210p_8_port_gigabit_poe_smart.html/), but it’s not rack mountable, and buying a rack mountable case for it from somewhere like Etsy brings the price very close to the price of the 16-port switch.

    Hope that helps :)

    no switch since I cannot find a switch that is affordable and runs FOSS software

    If you get a “dumb” unmanaged switch, it’s literally just a purpose-built switch chip connected to the Ethernet ports. There’s not really any software running on it, and in fact there’s way more proprietary code running on a PC in the CPU’s microcode :)

    the “router” will do the switching for me through bridged ports

    The downside of this is that you may not get line speed through all ports simultaneously. There are some PCIe network cards that have 4 ports and a switch chip for line-rate switching between the ports, but I’ve never actually seen one in real life.

    • MigratingtoLemmy@lemmy.worldEnglish
      1·
      1 year ago

      Thank you, that was helpful.

      I am aware that a dumb switch would remove the problem of proprietary code to an extent, but I do need features like VLANs and ACLs. I can’t do that with a dumb switch and a router.

      Indeed, I might not get line speed; but the boxes I’m looking at often have an X8/x16 PCIe connection to the main CPU. Even if not line-speed, I suppose I can hope for 80% of the possible speed, which should be plenty for me.

      Thanks for the comment